New saddle time

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The local bike shop has the fizik test saddles in and after wasting money on adamo, full carbon and others I thought its best to fully try one or two out prior to splashing more cash 🙂

#RideCoventry

Above saddle no good so trying the 3rd in the series for BULLS 🙂

bulls

Going for comfort over weight these days even with top end shorts

Moving to a none copied frame 2016 (maybe earlier)

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Well the time has come the frame has done me proud and been fairly reliable but I just fancy THE REAL DEAL !

I want to find out if the real deal rides better with less round BUZZ etc

SO my hit list its got to be a lightweight job for climbing 🙂

Needs to take the ROTOR crank 30mm (important as I’m not buying a new crankset)

Cannondale hi-mod evo weight 695g (2014 model £1400)

Trek Emonda SLR 690g (but £3000 and 3 month wait)

Scott addict 790g + 300g forks (£1200 in the sale or £2400 RRP)

Kit upgrade – Lightweight lid aka the helmet

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Its not a carbon frame but its hopefully lightweight and an upgrade so I thought I’d share my findings on some cheaper options to lose 100grms of your head 🙂 I’ve had a shoulder issue for a while so losing anything will HELP !!!

So the options (please tell me if there’s anything else ???) my current KASK KS 10B lid weights in at 280g A quick scan you can get a good lid around 190-210g OK its not going to save you lots but every little helps and I fancy a new summer lid for the ALPE D’Huez tour in Sept 2015

Limar ultralight+ 104 pops up £88 4/5 bikeradar rating 210g

Ranking (R91) feather 190g (probikekit) depends on colour/size £52-£110 – nice bright blue in XL is £77.25

decisions decisions

Ranking in blue bought last night couldn’t wait but while searching I laughed at how assos can rebrand the ranking feather and add a bit more profit

http:// www.wiggle.co.uk/assos-jingo-g1-road-helmet/
👍 money making machines the swiss

Drilling the carbon for fully internal cables Di2

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More R-041 tinkering I’ve not been happy with the rear cable for battery and front DR running through between frame and wheel cable tied in, so last week I decided it was time to drill out the front DL cable hole so it could take 2 Di2 wires, it didn’t take much and for me looks 100% better, not sure why velobuild didn’t make it bigger but I guess its really built for cables rather than Di2.

Quick video on YOUTUBE bike still going not sure strong but going 🙂

The stats show we get loads of views on wordpress but not many comments, come on all share your thoughts on here or youtube. any issues share them hopefully somebody can solve it. As we all know these frames don’t come hassle free there’s always some tinkering to be done.